Iyini i-Gluconolactone?
ukuvusa ukuhlehla okubuhlungu ekilasini lamakhemikhali esikole samabanga aphezulu, ungase ukhumbule ukuthi 'i-poly' isho okuningi nokuthi amaqembu e-hydroxyl angama-pair of oxygen nama-athomu e-hydrogen. Iphuzu liwukuthi, ama-PHA afana ne-gluconolactone anamaqembu amaningana e-hydroxyl, okuyikhona okuwanika izakhiwo zawo eziyingqayizivele futhi ahlukanise nama-AHA nama-BHA omhlaba. "Njengamanye ama-acids, i-gluconolactone inamandla okukhipha amangqamuzana afile engxenyeni engaphandle yesikhumba, okuholela esikhumbeni esibushelelezi, esikhanyayo," kuchaza uCarqueville. Umehluko?
Lawo maqembu e-hydroxyl ayenza ibe yi-humectant futhi, i-AKA isithako esidonsa amanzi esikhumbeni. Futhi lokho kusho ukuthi i-gluconolactone ayisebenzi nje njenge-asidi exfoliating, kodwa futhi njenge-hydrator, iyenza ibe mnene kakhulu kunamanye ama-asidi. Kubuye kube i-molecule enkulu kakhulu engakwazi ukungena ngokujulile esikhumbeni, okungesinye isizathu sokuthi imnene futhi inketho enhle yesethi ebucayi, u-Farber uyanezela.
Noma kunjalo, ngokungafani ne-glycolic noma i-salicylic acid, mancane amathuba okuba ubone i-gluconolactone ithathwa njengenkanyezi yombukiso emikhiqizweni yokunakekelwa kwesikhumba, kuphawula uGohara (okuchaza ukuthi kungani ungase ungakezwa ngayo kuze kube manje). Uthi: “Akubhekwa njengesithako esisebenzayo, kodwa njengomdlali osekelayo, ngenxa yazo zombili izici zayo zokuzikhipha kanye ne-hydrating.” Kodwa nakuba kungase kube isithako esisebusweni bakho, kusabalulekile ukusifuna. phuma futhi ukwenze kube yingxenye yesu lakho lokunakekela isikhumba.
Izinzuzo ze-Gluconolactone Yesikhumba
Uma ucabangela ukusetshenziswa kwemikhiqizo equkethe i-Gluconolactone, ungase uzibuze ukuthi lesi sithako sisebenza kahle kangakanani uma siqhathaniswa nama-AHA noma ama-beta hydroxy acid avame ukusetshenziswa kakhulu. Ukuhlolwa kwe-photoaging ne-Gluconolactone kubonisa ukuthi le asidi inciphisa ukubukeka kwemigqa emihle nemibimbi ehlotshaniswa ne-photoaging ngemva kwamasonto ayisithupha, nokuthi imiphumela emikhulu nakakhulu yabonakala ngemva kwamasonto ayishumi nambili. Lokhu kusho ukuthi uma usebenzisa ukhilimu noma i-serum equkethe lesi sithako, ngeke ubone imiphumela esheshayo, kodwa ngemva kwenyanga noma ngaphezulu kokusetshenziswa okuqhubekayo, kufanele uqale ukubona ukunciphisa imigqa emihle nemibimbi. Lokhu kwenza iGluconolactone ibe isithako esisebenzayo kulabo abangabheki ukulungiswa okusheshayo kwesikhumba sabo esiguga futhi abafuna umkhiqizo ozobanika imiphumela yesikhathi eside kunalokho.
Uma unesikhumba esizwelayo, kufanele wenze umzamo wokuqonda ukuthi ukusetshenziswa isikhathi eside kwe-Gluconolactone kungase kusithinte kanjani isikhumba sakho nokuthi kungase kubangele yini umonakalo ongase ubangele amanye ama-acid, njengokulahlekelwa umbala endaweni eselashwayo.
Ikhipha isikhumba: Njenganoma iyiphi i-asidi, isebenza njenge-exfoliating yamakhemikhali, ihlakaza amaseli afile, omile ahlala phezu kwesikhumba sakho. Lokhu kuthuthukisa ukuthungwa kanye nezwi (ngamanye amazwi, imigqa emihle namabala), futhi kungasiza ekususeni uwoyela oweqile, ngokusho kukaFarber. Nakuba futhi, ngenxa yokuthi iyi-molecule enkulu, ayingeni ngokujulile esikhumbeni njengabanye abalingani bayo be-asidi. Futhi lokho kuyenza ibe mnene kakhulu, ibe namandla okuba nemiphumela engemihle engathandeki njengokubomvu nokucwayiza ehle kakhulu.
Iqinisa isikhumba: Lawo maqembu engeziwe e-hydroxyl yiwo enza i-gluconolactone ibe yi-humectant, isithako esifaka amanzi ngokuheha amanzi esikhumbeni (amanye ama-humectants avamile ahlanganisa i-hyaluronic acid ne-glycerin): “Ama-AHA awanawo lo mthamo wokuthanda amanzi, okungesinye isici esenza I-gluconolactone ilula kakhulu. Iyakhipha kanyekanye futhi ikhiphe amanzi," kusho uGohara. "Ngakho-ke umuntu ongase angakwazi ukubekezelela ama-AHA angase asebenzise i-gluconolactone ngaphandle kokucasuka," uyanezela.
Inikeza izici ze-antioxidant: Nakuba kungase kungabi i-antioxidant yendabuko ngendlela efanayo ne-vitamin C noma i-vitamin E, kunobunye ubufakazi bokuthi i-gluconolactone inganciphisa ama-radicals mahhala ukulwa nokulimala kwe-UV, kusho u-Farber. I-Gohara ifaka lokhu ngenxa yezakhiwo zayo zokuchela, ezivumela ukuthi ibophe ama-radicals mahhala alimaza isikhumba okubangelwa ukuchayeka ezintweni ezifana nelanga nokungcola.
Ingase ibe nezindawo ezilwa namagciwane: Nakuba ijaji lisaphumile kulokhu, kunemicabango yokuthi i-gluconolactone ingase ibe yi-antimicrobial, engayenza ibe yindlela enhle yokwelapha izinduna, kuphawula i-Carqueville.
Imiphumela Emibi Ye-Gluconolactone
“I-Gluconolactone ithathwa njengephephile ezinhlotsheni eziningi zesikhumba, okuhlanganisa nesikhumba esizwelayo,” kusho uCarquveille. “Nakuba njenganoma iyiphi i-asidi ye-topical, ufuna ukuqapha kakhulu uma unesimo lapho isikhumba sisengozini, njenge-rosacea noma i-atopic dermatitis,” uyanezela. Futhi yebo, ngoba kuseyi-asidi, ububomvu nokomisa kuhlale kungenzeka, kukhomba uGohara. Nakuba futhi, amathuba alokhu cishe mancane kakhulu kunamanye ama-asidi, njenge-glycolic noma i-salicylic.
Ubani Okufanele Asebenzise I-Gluconolactone?
Wonke umuntu angasebenzisa iGluconolactone. Kodwa ifaneleka kakhulu esikhumbeni esibucayi esingakwazi ukumelana nanoma yimaphi amanye ama-asidi. Uma i-glycolic noma i-lactic ikucasula, phendukela kulokhu.
Ungayisebenzisa kanjani iGluconolactone?
I-Gluconolactone ingase ibe mnene, kodwa lokho akusona izaba zokuyisebenzisa nsuku zonke. Ukukhipha i-foliation kwansuku zonke AKULONA umqondo omuhle.
Sebenzisa i-Gluconolactone ubusuku obubodwa noma obubili ngeviki, ngemva nje kokuhlanza. Ungakhohlwa ukuthambisa kahle ngemva kwalokho.
Isikhathi sokuthumela: Nov-08-2023
