Arbutin iboneka mugukora glucose hamwe na hydroquinone yakuwe mumababi ya bilberry, amababi ya cranberry, amababi ya puwaro, imbuto zidubu, hamwe nubururu, bikomoka mumisozi. Imiterere ya molekuline ya arbutine ni ya hydroquinone ifatanye na glucose. Arbutin ibuza ibikorwa bya tyrosinase, igira uruhare mugikorwa cya synthesis ya melanin mu ruhu, igahagarika kwirundanya kwa melanine ikabije, igabanya pigmentation, ifasha no gusohora imiterere yuruhu, kandi ikarinda ibibara nibisebe. Arbutin igabanijwemo α-ubwoko na β-ubwoko bitewe nuburyo glucose na hydroquinone bifitanye isano.
Arbutinikorwa na synthesis. β-Arbutin ifite imiterere ihamye kuruta α-arbutine kandi ivunika byoroshye nimirasire ya UV nubushyuhe. Bitewe nibi biranga, birasabwa gukoresha ibicuruzwa bivura uruhu hamwe na β-arbutine nijoro gusa, kandi iyo bikoreshejwe kumanywa, birasabwa gukoreshwa hamwe nizuba. Ifite kandi ibibi byo guteshwa agaciro byoroshye na enzymes zo mu nda bitewe no guhagarara neza kwingirabuzimafatizo ugereranije na α-arbutine. Ni α-arbutin yishyura iyi nenge.
- CAS No.: 497-76-7
- EC Umubare: 207-850-3
- Inzira ya molekulari: C12H16O7
α-Arbutinirashobora kubyara gusa binyuze muri synthesis enzymatique (microbial fermentation). Bitandukanye na ar-arbutine, irwanya urumuri nubushyuhe, bityo irashobora gukoreshwa amanywa nijoro kandi igakora neza imbere muri selile, bigatuma ikora neza kandi idafite uburozi. Mugihe cyo kwishyura amakosa ya β-arbutine, irahagaze neza muburyo butajegajega kandi ntabwo byoroshye gucika. α-Arbutin irusha imbaraga 10-arbutine mukubuza melanogenez. α-Arbutin ibuza tyrosinase kugirango igere no ku ruhu kandi igabanye ibisaza, inkovu za acne, umutuku nyuma yinenge, nibindi byinshi. Ifite kandi antiseptic na anti-inflammatory.
- Numero ya CAS: 84380-01-8
- EC No: 617-561-8
- EINECS / ELINCS: 440-470-8
- Inzira ya molekulari: C12H16O7
Ni irihe sano riri hagati ya Arbutin na Alpha Arbutin?
- Arbutin na alpha arbutin ni hydroquinone ya glycosilated.
- Alpha Arbutin ni bumwe muburyo bubiri bwa arbutine.
- Byombi bikomoka ku masoko karemano.
- Babuza ibikorwa bya tyrosinase.
- Gutyo, barabuza gushiraho melanine.
- Ubwoko bwombi bugabanya ibara ryuruhu ukoresheje imirasire ya UV ituruka ku zuba.
- Byongeye kandi, arbutin na alpha arbutin ikora nkibikoresho byorohereza uruhu.
Ni irihe tandukaniro riri hagati ya Arbutin na Alpha Arbutin?
Arbutin ni hydroquinone ya glycosilated ibuza tyrosinase, ikabuza gukora melanine, mu gihe alpha-arbutine ni bumwe mu buryo bubiri bwa arbutine bwihanganira ubushyuhe, bukerekana ituze ryinshi ry’umucyo hamwe n’imiterere y’amazi menshi kurusha ubundi buryo. Rero, iri ni itandukaniro ryibanze hagati ya arbutin na alpha arbutin. Kwibanda kumutekano mukoresha arbutin muburyo bwa alfa ni 2%, naho beta ni 7%.
Infographic ikurikira irerekana itandukaniro riri hagati ya arbutin na alpha arbutin muburyo bwa mbonerahamwe yo kugereranya kuruhande.
Nigute arbutin ikora kuruhu rwawe?
Nkuko tubizi, melanocytes yuruhu namara gukangurwa numucyo wo hanze ultraviolet, izabyara tyrosinase, ihuza tirozine mumubiri kugirango ikore dopamine, hanyuma amaherezo ikore melanine binyuze muri REDOX, kubora no kwangirika kwa decarboxylation. Melanin, pigment ishinzwe ibara ryuruhu, noneho ijyanwa murwego rwibanze, dermis, epidermis nizindi miterere yuruhu, hanyuma hamwe na dander yamenetse cyangwa sisitemu yo gutembera mumaraso. Ariko, mugihe hari melanine nyinshi, ntishobora guhindurwa numubiri bizagwa mumyanya ya epidermal kugirango bibe ikizinga. Bimwe mu bikoresho nka hydroquinone (hydroquinone), arbutin, fenylethylresorcinol, na aside ya azelaic birashobora guhagarika neza guhuza tirozine na tirozine no kubuza melanine.
Arbutin ihuza neza na enzyme tyrosinase itera synthesis ya melanin. Nuburyo bukomeye bwa hydroquinone (birabujijwe mu Burayi na Ositaraliya) ariko byoroheje kuruhu. Bitandukanye na hydroquinone, nikintu gikomeye cyorohereza uruhu gishobora gukara cyane kuruhu, arbutine nubundi buryo bwizewe kandi busanzwe. Muri make, beta arbutin ikora mukurwanya irwanya tyrosine. Ibi birinda umusaruro wa melanin, bigatuma uruhu rwawe rusa nkurumuri kandi rukayangana - kimwe no kugabanuka kwa hyperpigmentation, aho imyaka igeze, izuba hamwe ninkovu za acne.
Igihe cyo kohereza: Nyakanga-11-2023
