I-Arbutin ifumaneka ngokuphendula i-glucose kunye ne-hydroquinone ekhutshwe kumagqabi e-bilberry, amagqabi e-cranberry, amagqabi epere, amaqunube ebhere, kunye ne-blueberries, ezihlala kwimimandla yeentaba. Ubume bemolekyuli ye-arbutin yile ye-hydroquinone encanyathiselwe kwiglucose. I-Arbutin inqanda umsebenzi we-tyrosinase, ebandakanyeka kwinkqubo ye-melanin synthesis eluswini, icinezela ukuqokelelana okukhulu kwe-melanin, inciphisa umbala, inceda ukukhupha ithoni yesikhumba, kwaye ikhusela amabala kunye namabala. I-Arbutin ihlulwe ibe yi-α-uhlobo kunye nohlobo lwe-β ngokuxhomekeke kwindlela i-glucose kunye ne-hydroquinone edibeneyo.
β-Arbutinuveliswa yikhemikhali. I-β-Arbutin inozinzo olusezantsi lwesakhiwo kune-α-arbutin kwaye yophuka lula yimitha ye-UV kunye nobushushu. Ngenxa yolu phawu, kuyacetyiswa ukuba kusetyenziswe iimveliso ze-skincare nge-β-arbutin kuphela ebusuku, kwaye xa zisetyenziswa emini, kucetyiswa ukuba zisetyenziswe kunye ne-sunscreen. Ikwanayo ne-disadvantage yokutshatyalaliswa lula yi-enzymes ye-intracellular ngenxa yokuzinza okuphantsi kwe-intracellular xa kuthelekiswa ne-α-arbutin. Yi-α-arbutin ehlawulela le ntsilelo.
- Inombolo yeCAS: 497-76-7
- Inombolo ye-EC: 207-850-3
- Ifomula yemolekyuli: C12H16O7
α-Arbutininokuveliswa kuphela nge-enzymatic synthesis (i-microbial fermentation). Ngokungafaniyo ne-β-arbutin, iyamelana nokukhanya kunye nobushushu, ngoko inokusetyenziswa imini nobusuku kwaye isebenza ngokuzinzileyo ngaphakathi kwiseli, iyenza isebenze ngakumbi kwaye ingabi netyhefu. Ngokubuyekeza iintsilelo ze-β-arbutin, izinzile kakhulu kwaye ayiqhekeki lula. I-α-Arbutin imalunga namaxesha e-10 anamandla ngaphezu kwe-β-arbutin ekunqandeni i-melanogenesis. I-α-Arbutin inqanda i-tyrosinase ukuba ikhuphe ithoni yesikhumba kwaye inciphise amabala obudala, amabala amaqhakuva, ububomvu emva kwamabala, kunye nokunye. Kananjalo ine-antiseptic kunye ne-anti-inflammatory properties.
- Inombolo ye-CAS: 84380-01-8
- Inombolo yeEC: 617-561-8
- I-EINECS/ELINCS: 440-470-8
- Ifomula yemolekyuli: C12H16O7
Ziziphi izinto ezifanayo phakathi kweArbutin kunye neAlpha Arbutin?
- I-Arbutin kunye ne-alpha arbutin zi-glycosylated hydroquinones.
- I-Alpha Arbutin yenye yeendlela ezimbini ze-arbutin.
- Zombini ziphuma kwimithombo yendalo.
- Banqanda umsebenzi we-tyrosinase.
- Ngaloo ndlela, banqanda ukubunjwa kwe-melanin.
- Zombini ezi ndidi zinciphisa ukuzala kwebala eluswini ngemitha ye-UV evela elangeni.
- Ngapha koko, i-arbutin kunye ne-alpha arbutin zisebenza njengeearhente ezikhanyisa ulusu.
Yintoni uMahluko phakathi kweArbutin kunye neAlpha Arbutin?
I-Arbutin yi-glycosylated hydroquinone evimbela i-tyrosinase, ikhusela ukwakheka kwe-melanin, ngelixa i-alpha-arbutin yenye yeendlela ezimbini ze-arbutin ezixhathisa ubushushu, ibonisa ukuzinza kokukhanya ngakumbi kunye neempawu eziphezulu zokunyibilika kwamanzi kunezinye iifom. Ke, lo ngumahluko ophambili phakathi kwe-arbutin kunye ne-alpha arbutin. Ugxininiso olukhuselekileyo lokusetyenziswa kwe-arbutin ngokubhekiselele kwifom ye-alpha yi-2%, kunye nefom ye-beta yi-7%.
Le infographic ingezantsi ibonisa umahluko phakathi kwe-arbutin kunye ne-alpha arbutin kwifom yetheyibhuli yokuthelekisa icala necala.
Isebenza njani i-arbutin eluswini lwakho?
Njengoko siyazi, xa i-melanocyte yesikhumba ivuselelwe kukukhanya kwe-ultraviolet yangaphandle, iya kuvelisa i-tyrosinase, edibanisa ne-tyrosine emzimbeni ukwenza i-dopamine, kwaye ekugqibeleni yenze i-melanin nge-REDOX, ukubola kunye nokuphendula kwe-decarboxylation. I-Melanin, i-pigment ejongene nombala wolusu, emva koko ihanjiswa kwi-basal layer, i-dermis, i-epidermis kunye nolunye uluhlu lwesakhiwo solusu, kwaye emva koko kunye nokuchithwa kwe-dander okanye inkqubo yokujikeleza kwegazi ikhutshwe. Nangona kunjalo, xa kukho i-melanin eninzi kakhulu, ayinakuchithwa ngumzimba iya kudlula kumaleko we-epidermal ukwenza ibala. Ezinye izithako ezifana ne-hydroquinone (i-hydroquinone), i-arbutin, i-phenylethylresorcinol, kunye ne-azelaic acid inokuthintela ngokufanelekileyo ukubophelela kwe-tyrosinase kwi-tyrosine kwaye inhibit melanin.
I-Arbutin ibopha ngokufanelekileyo kunye ne-enzyme tyrosinase eyenza ukuhlanganiswa kwe-melanin. Yenye indlela enamandla kune-hydroquinone (evaliweyo eYurophu nase-Australia) kodwa ithambile eluswini. Ngokungafaniyo ne-hydroquinone, isithako esinamandla esikhanyisa ulusu esinokuba ndlongondlongo kakhulu eluswini, i-arbutin yenye indlela ekhuselekileyo nendalo. Ngamafutshane, i-beta arbutin isebenza ngokukhuphisana ngokunqanda i-tyrosine. Oku kuthintela ukuveliswa kwe-melanin, kwenza ulusu lwakho lubonakale lukhaphukhaphu kwaye luqaqambile - kunye nokufiphala kwe-hyperpigmentation, amabala obudala, amabala elanga kunye namaqhakuva.
Ixesha lokuposa: Jul-11-2023
