I-Arbutin itholwa ngokuphendula i-glucose nge-hydroquinone ekhishwe emaqabunga e-bilberry, emaqabunga e-cranberry, amaqabunga amapheya, amajikijolo amabhere, nama-blueberries, atholakala ezindaweni ezisezintabeni. Isakhiwo samangqamuzana e-arbutin yileso se-hydroquinone exhunywe ku-glucose. I-Arbutin ivimbela umsebenzi we-tyrosinase, obandakanyeka enqubweni ye-melanin synthesis esikhumbeni, icindezela ukuqoqwa kwe-melanin ngokweqile, inciphisa umbala, isiza ukukhulula ithoni yesikhumba, futhi ivimbele amabala namabala. I-Arbutin ihlukaniswe yaba uhlobo lwe-α kanye nohlobo lwe-β kuye ngokuthi i-glucose ne-hydroquinone kuxhunywe kanjani.
β-Arbutinikhiqizwa yi-chemical synthesis. I-β-Arbutin inokusimama kwesakhiwo okuphansi kune-α-arbutin futhi yephulwa kalula imisebe ye-UV nokushisa. Ngenxa yalesi sici, kunconywa ukusebenzisa imikhiqizo ye-skincare ene-β-arbutin kuphela ebusuku, futhi uma isetshenziswa emini, kunconywa ukuthi isetshenziswe kanye ne-sunscreen. Iphinde ibe nokungalungi kokwehliswa kalula ngama-enzyme e-intracellular ngenxa yokuqina okuphansi kwe-intracellular uma kuqhathaniswa ne-α-arbutin. I-α-arbutin enxephezela lokhu kushiyeka.
- Inombolo ye-CAS: 497-76-7
- Inombolo ye-EC: 207-850-3
- Ifomula yemolekyuli: C12H16O7
α-Arbutiningakhiqizwa kuphela nge-enzymatic synthesis (i-microbial fermentation). Ngokungafani ne-β-arbutin, imelana nokukhanya nokushisa, ngakho ingasetshenziswa imini nobusuku futhi isebenza ngokuzinza ngaphakathi kweseli, iyenze isebenze kakhulu futhi ingabi nobuthi. Ngokunxephezela ukushiyeka kwe-β-arbutin, izinzile kakhulu futhi ayiqhekeki kalula. I-α-Arbutin inamandla aphindwe ka-10 kune-β-arbutin ekuvimbeleni i-melanogenesis. I-α-Arbutin ivimbela i-tyrosinase ukuze iveze ithoni yesikhumba futhi inciphise amabala okuguga, izibazi zezinduna, ububomvu ngemva kwamabala, nokuningi. Iphinde ibe ne-antiseptic kanye ne-anti-inflammatory properties.
- Inombolo ye-CAS: 84380-01-8
- Inombolo ye-EC: 617-561-8
- I-EINECS/ELINCS: 440-470-8
- Ifomula yemolekyuli: C12H16O7
Yiziphi Ukufana Phakathi kwe-Arbutin ne-Alpha Arbutin?
- I-Arbutin ne-alpha arbutin yi-glycosylated hydroquinones.
- I-Alpha Arbutin ingenye yezinhlobo ezimbili ze-arbutin.
- Zombili zithathwe emithonjeni yemvelo.
- Bavimbela umsebenzi we-tyrosinase.
- Ngakho-ke, bavimbela ukwakheka kwe-melanin.
- Zombili lezi zinhlobo zinciphisa umbala wesikhumba ngemisebe ye-UV evela elangeni.
- Ngaphezu kwalokho, i-arbutin ne-alpha arbutin zisebenza njengama-ejenti akhanyisa isikhumba.
Uyini Umehluko Phakathi kwe-Arbutin ne-Alpha Arbutin?
I-Arbutin iyi-glycosylated hydroquinone evimbela i-tyrosinase, ivimbele ukwakheka kwe-melanin, kuyilapho i-alpha-arbutin ingenye yezinhlobo ezimbili ze-arbutin ekwazi ukumelana nokushisa, ikhombisa ukuqina kokukhanya okwengeziwe kanye nezindawo zokuncibilika kwamanzi okuphezulu kunolunye uhlobo. Ngakho-ke, lo umehluko oyinhloko phakathi kwe-arbutin ne-alpha arbutin. Ukugxila okuphephile kokusetshenziswa kwe-arbutin ngokwefomu le-alpha ngu-2 %, futhi ifomu le-beta lingama-7%.
I-infographic engezansi iveza umehluko phakathi kwe-arbutin ne-alpha arbutin ngendlela yethebula ukuze kuqhathaniswe uhlangothi necele.
Isebenza kanjani i-arbutin esikhumbeni sakho?
Njengoba sazi, uma ama-melanocyte esikhumba evuselelwa ukukhanya kwe-ultraviolet yangaphandle, azokhiqiza i-tyrosinase, ehlangana ne-tyrosine emzimbeni ukuze yakhe i-dopamine, futhi ekugcineni yakha i-melanin nge-REDOX, ukubola kanye nokusabela kwe-decarboxylation. I-Melanin, i-pigment ebhekele umbala wesikhumba, ibe-ke ithuthelwa kungqimba oluyisisekelo, i-dermis, i-epidermis kanye nolunye ungqimba lwesakhiwo sesikhumba, bese kuthi ukuchithwa kwe-dander noma uhlelo lokujikeleza kwegazi lukhishwe. Kodwa-ke, uma kune-melanin eningi kakhulu, ayikwazi ukugaywa ngumzimba izokwehla kungqimba lwe-epidermal ukwenza ibala. Ezinye izithako ezifana ne-hydroquinone (i-hydroquinone), i-arbutin, i-phenylethylresorcinol, ne-azelaic acid ingavimba ngempumelelo ukubopha kwe-tyrosinase ku-tyrosine futhi ivimbele i-melanin.
I-Arbutin ibopha ngempumelelo i-enzyme tyrosinase edala ukwakheka kwe-melanin. Kungenye indlela enamandla kune-hydroquinone (evinjelwe eYurophu nase-Australia) kodwa ithambile esikhumbeni. Ngokungafani ne-hydroquinone, okuyisithako esinamandla esikhanyisa isikhumba esingaba nolaka esikhumbeni, i-arbutin iyindlela ephephile nengokwemvelo. Ngamafuphi, i-beta arbutin isebenza ngokuncintisana ngokuvimbela i-tyrosine. Lokhu kuvimbela ukukhiqizwa kwe-melanin, kwenze isikhumba sakho sibonakale silula futhi sikhanya - kanye nokufiphala kwe-hyperpigmentation, amabala obudala, amabala elanga nezibazi zezinduna.
Isikhathi sokuthumela: Jul-11-2023
